Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
